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How to install a gas appliance. Tools and Walkthrough. Dryer, Water Heater, Furnace, HVAC. 1 of 3

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Added by Philip Gahan in Gas Cookers
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Dewalt Power Tools

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Important info below (thanks for bringing up flaws and constructive criticism to this benevolent effort):

Firstly, this is my first gas pipe install. I had no tutors. There is much more info. I wouldn't have bothered to make a vid, except nobody else had. So for now, it's unfortunately still useful.

Use FAR less pipe 'dope' than shown. the viscosity doesn't allow normal tightening on so much 'dope' to expel all excess dope and you're left with less friction on the steel-to-steel contact than is optimal.

You don't need a pipe threader if you're doing main line offshoots to appliances and you know your pipe lengths ahead of time. Home depot and the like will likely thread the lengths for you.

Use "black pipe" or copper pipe above ground. Epoxy coated pipe with pvc 10+ mil tape for underground joints.

Before you solidify your plan, get info on your
appliances and their necessary gas load. An overloaded
gas line may cease to function entirely so long as it
is underfed. To reduce friction and increase supply
keep pipeline turns to a minimum. If you have a tube
bender, great!

Gas line (BTU or CF)/Hr supply ability chart for
standard 1/2 PSI natural gas pipeline at www.engineeringtoolbox.com/natural-gas-pipe-sizing-d_826.html

If you're not too lazy or busy, plan your line for an appliance with maximal power usage of the appliance type. (Ex., gas dryer: 40k btu)

If there is anything missing from this tutorial, make a
better one or let me know what needs to be expressed.

Please don't reduce gas appliance venting diameter below the diameter of the exhaust hardware unless you know what you're doing. I don't know enough to instruct you on diameter reduction. Additionally, it's not to "code", and code is getting ever more strict, so it may be better to do the job to code the first time.
Because we have too many people on the planet, Nickel is expensive, and so is stainless, so consequently, Code is designed for these inferior materials like mild or galvanized steel.
Code states: double wall vents in attic spaces. double walled vents need to be at least the specified distance from any flammable material (often 1 inch, but depends on how well insulated it is)
single wall may be used in conditioned spaces like
indoors. They must be kept 6 inches from flammable materials.
Wall pass-throughs must be secured to the wall using special fastening flanges. If they're loose, the short, powerless inspector may unleash his pathetic wrath on you and be a pain in the ass for a while.
Max ratio of rise to run for non-powered exhaust routes should be kept to 1:1 or even more in some jurisdictions.
Horizontal runs should have a constant incline of at least 1/4" per lineal foot.
Keep turns gradual if possible, and to a minimum. Sometimes a specified minimum, so watch out if you live in an especially restrictive or monetarily-rich area.

Gas pipes must be secured at different length intervals depending on their size and their consequent rigidity. 1 inch pipe every 8 feet. 3/4 inch: 6ft 1/2"? unknown to me, but I'd say every 4 feet.

there is a useful document which can help you save on utility bills and also pass just about any inspection. It's called "title 24" and has many guidelines which you can check out. Additionally, more construction guidelines can be found by reading documents called International Building Code (IBC) and choosing the years closest to current. http://www.archive.org/details/gov.ca.bsc.title24.2010.part05

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